Method of making ensor net in conjunction with other nets without aid of alpha bottom-bar jacquard



May 11 1926. N 1,584,074

5. W. BLOR METHOD OF MAKING ENSOR NET IN CONJUNCTION WITH OTHER NETS WITHOUT AID OF A BOTTOM BAR JACQUARD Filed Oct. 10, 1924 oznurS,

Patented May 11, 192%.

UNITED STATES rrsn'r orricn.

BERNARD W. BLORE, 0F NORlVALK, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGNOR T0 CONNECTICUT LACE WORKS, INCORPORATED, OE NOBWALK, CONNECTICUT, A. CORPORATION OF CON- NECTICUT.

METHOD OF MAKING ENSOR NET IN CONJUNCTION WITH OTHER NETS WITHOUT AID OF A BOTTOM-BAR JACQUARD.

Application filed October 10, 1824. Serial No. 742,941.

This invention relates to the art of manufacturing lace on the Levers lace machine or the go through machine and has for an object to make a small round hole mesh (known commonly in the. trade as Ensor, in which all threads in this net rise and tall two gaits in crossing) in conjunction with other nets and grounds made with the same threads at the same time without the aid of a bottom bar jacquard and without using independent bars for each and every thread. In other words I have discovered a method of making an Ensor net at the same time as making another net, as for example, a clothing for a figure, without requiring the use of a bottom bar jacquard.

Referring to the accompanying drawing,

Fig. 1 illustrates diagrannnatically a portion of a strip of lace showing Ensor net in conjunction with other nets to form the figures or design, and illustrates merely one of the designs which I am enabled to make by my new method without the use of a bottom bar jacquard. In this figure the bobbin threads run vertically.

Fig. 2 is a diagrammatical view on an enlarged scale showing the workings of the threads to form a portion of the clothing or figure and the adjacent Ensor net the reverse and independent threads from the two next adjacent bobbin threads on each side which pass around the two outside bobbin threads being omitted for greater clearness in illustration. In this figure the bottom threads are shown as running horizontally. That is, this figure is turned ninety degrees from Fig. 1.

I-Ieretofore in making high class Chantilly lace employing a small round hole mesh known commonly in the trade as Ensor (in which the reverse and independent threads in this net rise and fall two gaits in crossing) in conjunction with, or that is, at the same time with other nets and grounds to form figures or designs it has been made only by use of what is known as the bottom bar jacquard in conjunction with the main jacquard. V This bottom bar jacquard was used to control the threads independently and as it is a complete jacquard attachment with an independent control for each thread it very greatly complicates the operation of the Levers machine. This together with the at- For example, suppose the width of a de sign requires ninety-six bobbins with ninetysix independent right twist threads and ninety-six independent reverse threads. In the old method of making this lace the whole of these hundred and ninety-two threadswere controlled independently by the bottom barjacquard and all these threads were further controlled by an extra set of bars at tached to the ordinary jacquard. The bars are known to the trade as stump bars. It will be obvious that this greatly complicated the setting up and operation of the machine, besides requiring a material outlay for the auxiliary attachment.

In my present method, however, I have accomplished the same result without the use of the auxiliary or so-called bottom bar jacquard attachment. Taking the same example, as used above in which the width of the design required ninety-six bobbins with ninety-six independent threads and ninetysix reverse threads, in weaving the regular nets the independent threads are controlled independently of each other by the regular jacquard attachment, and in the ordinary grounds or nets the reverse threads are merely wrapped around one bobbin thread. I have, however, found that by controlling a relatively small number of reverse bars, each carrying a plurality of the reverse threads, for example four reverse bars carrying the ninety-six reverse threads, twentyfour threads to each bar, I can cause the reverse threads to rise and fall two gaits or throw over two bobbin threads alternately along with the independent threads to make the so-called Ensor net, and at the same time I may control certain of the independent threads to produce the other nets or grounds to form a design or figure in conjunction with the Ensor net. As the control of the four reverse bars requires only four sets of needles I can control them from the same jacquard. from which the independent threads are controlled, and I can, therefore, weave the Ensor net and the other nets to form the design or figure at the same time without the use of the so-called bottom bar jacquard.

Referring to Fig. 2, B, B B indicate three adjacent bobbin threads, I and 1 two independent threads, and R and R two reverse thre'ads, the reverse and independent threads from the two nezzt adjacent bobbin threads on each side which pass around the two outside bobbin threads shown, being omitted. Starting at the left of the figure theworking of the threads in a portion of the clot-hing or figure indicated at 18 in Fig. 1 is shown in the space 18 of Fig. 2. It will be noted that here the two independent threads shown, I and I rise and tall continuously two gaits or over two bobbin threads, I over bobbin threads B and B and I over bobbin threads B and B to torm the clothing or figure, until they reach the edge of the figure indicated at 10, at

which point they pass; into the Ensor net shown at the right hand of this figure and indicated by the space 22. Beginning at point 10the independent. thread I is twisted;

about the bobbin thread 13 at 11, then rises. two gaits and is twisted about the bobbin th-readB at 12, and then falls and is twisted about the bobbin thread B and so on. The same; way beginning at 10 the independent thread I rises from 13' and istwisted aboutv the bobbin thread B at 1 1, then falls and is twisted about the bobbin thread B? at 15, and their rises. and is. twisted about the bobbin; thread B? and so on. The reverse threads R and R ,,however, are worked ditferently at the left hand halt of the figure or in the clothing 18 from the working of the independent threads, but in the right hand half of the. figure, or in the Ensor net from point 10, they work the same but in opposition. Beginning. at the left of the figure, reverse thread R rises from bobbin thread B is twisted about bobbin thread B at, 16, drops andis twisted about bobbin thread B at 17', rises and is twisted about bobbin thread B at 19', falls and is twisted about. bobbin thread B at 2.0 and so on. Reverse, thread R is twisted about bobbin thread B at. 24, falls and is twisted about bobbin thread. B at 25, rises. and is twisted about bobbin thread. B at 2.6, again falls and is twisted about bobbin thread B and so. on- The reverse thread R while in. the Ensor net throws over two bobbin threads or rises. and. falls two gaits alternately with the independent thread 1 that is, it is twisted about the bobbin thread 13 at 27 while the independent thread I is twisted about the bobbin thread 13 at 14 and so on, and in the Ensor net reverse thread R rises and falls two gaits alternately with the independent thread I in the same manner, and this work ing of the threads in the Ensor net forms the openings 28 in this net. It will be understood that similar reverse and independ ent threads are worked in the same manner about the remaining bobbin threads not shown, the drawing showing only a very small section of a piece of lace. It will be clear from Fig. 2 that the reverse threads represented by R and R are worked the same as they traversethe clothing or figure 18 as they do in the Ensornet 22. That is, these reverse threads represent the threads which are in the above example controlled by the four reverse bars, there being twentyfour of these threads in each bar. However, as each of the independent threads represented by the threads I and P are controlled.

by a single bar these threads can be indcpendently controlled to form the clothing or figure as indicated at 18 in Figs. 1 and 2, or they may be worked the. same as the reverse, threads but alternately thereto, as indicated at 22, in Fig. 2, to form with them the Ensor' net.

That is, while weaving the. Ensor net alone the independent and reverse threads are worked with the bobbin threads rising i and falling two. gaits in crossing and opposed to each other, but when working the clothing or. figure the independent threads are removed from theE'nsor net and worked independently toform the clothing or' figure while the reverse threads continue to rise and tall' two gaits in crossing. hen the figure isv completed the independent threads are returned to the Ensor net.

Referring to Fig.v 2' the lace 23 up to the edge of the Ensor net 22' is the usual. and ordinary lace weave. When we. come into the Ensor net every other thread (R, R etc.) is a reverse thread which rises and falls two gaits continuously throughout the entire net and without change, thesethreads (using the above example) passing through the four bars, twenty-four threads to the bar, and these four bars are each independently controlled by the main or top. jacquard. Then the other alternate threads, or that is, the independent threads (I 1 etc), throughout the Ensor net are working the same way but opposed to the reverse threads until it is desired to form a clothing or figure when these independent threads are each controlled independently by the jacquard to form the clothing, or figure,. each independent thread passing through an independent bar. All the controlled threads, both the independent and thereverse threads, come from a warp beam. I

Stated in another way, according to my invention, throughout the Ensor net the reverse threads rise and fall two gaits, these threads (in the example given above) passing through the four bars, twenty-four threads to a bar, which are controlled from the main jacquard; and in making the clothing or figure the independent threads are each controlled independently from the same jacquard, each thread passing through an independent bar.

It will be apparent that this method of making the so called Ensor net in conjunction with the other nets or grounds forming the design or figures, greatly reduces the amount of machinery or control mechanism required over the old method, requires much less time in setting up, and thus greatly reduces the cost of manufacture. In fact, the cost of this lace by the old method was very high, and furthermore, could not be made by the majority of manufacturers as they were not equipped with the auxiliary or so-called bottom jar jacquard.

Having thus set forth the nature of my invention, what I claim is:

1. The method of making a small round hole mesh known as Ensor, comprising bobbin, reverse and independent threads in which the independent and reverse threads rise and fall two gaits in crossing, in conjunction with other nets and grounds made with the same threads, which consists in controlling the reverse bars carrying a plurality of threads from the jacquard controlling the independent threads.

2. The method of making a small round hole mesh known as Ensor, comprising bobbin, reverse and independent threads and in which the independent and reverse threads rise and fall two gaits in crossing, in conjunction with other ne'ts and grounds made with the same threads, which consists in controlling the independent threads from a jacquard and at the same time controlling the reverse bars carrying a plurality of threads from said jacquard.

3. The method of making a small round hole mesh known as Ensor in conjunction with other nets and grounds which consists in controlling certain of the independent threads from a jacquard to cause said threads to rise and fall two gaits in crossing, controlling a plurality of reverse bars'carrying a plurality of threads from the said j acquard to cause the reverse threads to rise and fall two gaits in crossing and in alternation with said independent threads, and at the same time controlling the remainder of the independent threads to form another net or ground to make a design.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature.

BERNARD l/V. BLORE. 

